About Mercer County

Long before European arrival, Native American tribes, including those of the Mississippian culture, inhabited the region. Archaeological evidence points to their presence as early as 1000 A.D., with substantial settlements at Crump's Bottom and Clover Bottom. These settlements featured palisaded villages and suggest a thriving agricultural society, likely cultivating corn and other crops. They also engaged in trade with other tribes, their lives deeply connected to the natural resources and rhythms of the Appalachian environment. While the Shawnee, Delaware, and Wyandot tribes all utilized the area, the dominant force was the Iroquois Confederacy, specifically the Seneca tribe.

The Clay Family Statue, 'Agony in Stone', located in the Clay Family Memorial Park & Cemetery

By the time European settlers began arriving in the late 18th century, the region was primarily a hunting ground with no permanent Native American settlements. These early pioneers, primarily of European descent, were drawn to the area's fertile land and abundant natural resources. They established communities like Beaver Pond, Lake Shawnee (named for the Shawnee tribe that once frequented the area), Oakvale, and Flat Top, marking the beginnings of permanent European settlement in the region. These pioneers faced the challenges of carving out a living in the wilderness, including the threat of conflicts with Native American groups, a reality of frontier life at the time.

Among these early settlers was Mitchell Clay, who arrived in 1775 and established a homestead at Clover Bottom, near present-day Lake Shawnee. Clay, his wife Phoebe Belcher, and their fourteen children were among the first families to permanently settle in what would become Mercer County. Their story, however, is marked by tragedy. In 1783, while Mitchell was away, Native American groups attacked the Clay homestead, killing two of his children and capturing his son Ezekiel, who was later killed. This tragic event, memorialized at Clay Memorial Park, serves as a reminder of the hardships faced by early settlers and the complex relationship between settlers and Native Americans during this period.

In addition to those seeking land and opportunity, others sought refuge from religious persecution. A notable example is the community of Camp Creek, settled by Primitive Baptist dissenters seeking religious freedom. These early settlers, with their diverse backgrounds and motivations—farmers, hunters, merchants, and those seeking religious liberty—laid the foundation for the diverse and resilient community that would characterize Mercer County.

A map of Mercer County

By 1837, the population had grown to 2,000, a mix of farmers, artisans, and merchants, leading to the official establishment of Mercer County from portions of Giles and Tazewell counties on March 17th. The county seat was designated as Princeton, named after the battle where General Hugh Mercer, the county's namesake, fell during the Revolutionary War. This choice reflected the county's early connection to the struggle for American independence and the sacrifices made by those who fought for liberty.

Early settlers relied on agriculture as the foundation of their economy. They cultivated diverse crops, including corn, oats, wheat, and tobacco, adapting their farming practices to the mountainous terrain. Livestock, such as cattle and hogs, were also raised, providing essential food and resources. Beyond farming, the early settlers demonstrated remarkable resourcefulness and ingenuity in developing a self-sustaining economy. They established saltworks, utilizing the region's natural salt deposits, tanneries for processing animal hides, gristmills for grinding grain, and even foundries for producing metal tools and implements. These early industries not only met the needs of the growing community but also fostered trade and economic exchange with neighboring regions.

Social life in early Mercer County centered around family, church, and community gatherings. Religious services, weddings, and barn raisings provided opportunities for socializing and strengthening community bonds. Education was also valued, with subscription schools and private tutors providing instruction to children. As the population grew, the need for more formalized education led to the establishment of public schools, laying the foundation for a more literate and informed citizenry.

Despite the progress made during this period, early settlers also faced numerous challenges. The rugged terrain and limited transportation infrastructure made travel and communication difficult. Disease outbreaks were a constant threat, and access to healthcare was limited. Conflicts with Native American groups, though less frequent than in earlier decades, still posed a risk to outlying settlements. Despite these hardships, the early residents of Mercer County persevered, building a resilient and self-reliant community that would lay the groundwork for future growth and prosperity.

Map of Princeton Courthouse Battlefield

Despite its relative isolation, Mercer County was not immune to the turmoil of the Civil War. The county was deeply divided in its loyalties, reflecting the broader sectional tensions that gripped the nation. While some residents, particularly those in the eastern portion of the county with ties to Virginia, supported the Confederacy, others, especially those in the growing industrial centers, favored the Union. This internal conflict led to skirmishes and battles within the county, most notably the Battle of Pigeon Roost (also known as the Battle of Princeton Court House) in May 1862.

The battle unfolded as Confederate forces, under the command of Brigadier General Henry Heth, advanced on Princeton with the objective of disrupting Union supply lines and securing the Virginia & Tennessee Railroad, a vital transportation route for the Confederacy. Union troops, led by Colonel Rutherford B. Hayes (future President of the United States), had established a position in Princeton, anticipating a Confederate attack.

The fighting began on May 15th with a series of skirmishes as Confederate cavalry probed the Union defenses. On May 16th, Heth launched a full-scale assault on the Union position. The battle raged throughout the day, with both sides suffering casualties. The Union troops, outnumbered and outgunned, were eventually forced to retreat, leaving Princeton in Confederate hands.

The second Mercer County Courthouse, ca. 1890-1900. Image courtesy of West Virginia and Regional History Center, WVU Libraries

Following the battle, Confederate soldiers occupied Princeton and proceeded to burn much of the town, including the courthouse, several businesses, and many homes. This act of destruction was intended to punish the town for its perceived Union sympathies and to disrupt Union operations in the region. The burning of Princeton left a lasting scar on the community and served as a stark reminder of the war's devastating impact, even on seemingly distant communities.

The Battle of Pigeon Roost, while a relatively small engagement in the larger context of the Civil War, had a significant impact on Mercer County. It highlighted the deep divisions within the county and the devastating consequences of the conflict. The burning of Princeton left a lasting legacy of bitterness and resentment, and the physical and emotional scars of the battle took years to heal. The war also disrupted the county's economy and social fabric, leaving a lasting impact on its development.

The Reconstruction era brought further challenges and changes to Mercer County. In 1871, West Virginia's Republican-led government, seeking to consolidate its power and punish secessionist areas, created Summers County from a portion of Mercer County, stripping away 128 square miles of its territory and further fueling resentment among some residents. Moreover, state authorities in Wheeling attempted to move the county seat from Princeton, perceived as a Confederate stronghold, to Athens. This move, however, was met with fierce resistance from Princeton residents, and with the "redemption" of West Virginia by the Democrats in 1872, the county seat remained in Princeton. These postwar struggles and political maneuvers shaped the political landscape of Mercer County and contributed to its complex and sometimes contentious relationship with the state government.

The arrival of the Norfolk & Western Railway in 1883 marked a turning point in Mercer County's history, ushering in an era of unprecedented transformation fueled by the burgeoning Industrial Revolution. While the county had previously relied on agriculture and small-scale industry, the discovery and exploitation of the famed "smokeless" Pocahontas No. 3 coal seam propelled it onto the national stage. This high-quality coal, prized for its low sulfur content and high heat output, was in high demand for industrial uses, particularly in steel production and railroads.

One of the Deepwater’s early locomotives. The Deepwater combined with the Tidewater to form the Virginian Railway in 1909.

Crucially, the railroads themselves were essential to the growth of the coal industry. The Norfolk & Western Railway, with its expanding network of lines, provided the vital transportation link needed to move vast quantities of coal from the mines of Mercer County to markets across the nation. Without the railroads, the coal boom would have been impossible. The railroad not only transported the coal but also brought in the necessary equipment, supplies, and workers to support the burgeoning mining operations.

The impact of this symbiotic relationship between coal and railroads was immediate and dramatic. Northern capitalists, recognizing the immense potential of the Pocahontas coalfields, invested heavily in mining operations throughout Mercer County. Mining towns like McComas, Turkey Gap, and Coopers sprang up along the newly laid rail lines, transforming quiet valleys into bustling centers of industry. These towns, often built and controlled by the coal companies, became microcosms of the industrial age, with their rows of company houses, bustling commercial districts, and a constant hum of activity from the mines and railroads.

The population of Mercer County surged as workers flocked to the coalfields seeking employment. African Americans, escaping the oppressive conditions of the Jim Crow South, saw opportunity in the mines and contributed significantly to the workforce. European immigrants, primarily from Italy, Poland, and Hungary, also arrived in large numbers, bringing with them a rich tapestry of cultures, traditions, and languages that further diversified the county's social fabric. This influx of people from diverse backgrounds created a melting pot of cultures, shaping the unique identity of Mercer County and contributing to its vibrant social and cultural landscape.

The coal industry's influence, facilitated by the railroads, extended far beyond the mines themselves. It spurred the growth of related industries, such as timber, needed for mine construction and railroad ties. It also stimulated the development of infrastructure, including roads, bridges, and communication lines, necessary to support the growing population and industrial activity. The economic prosperity generated by the coal industry also led to the growth of towns and cities, providing new opportunities for businesses and services to cater to the growing population. Banks, stores, hotels, and restaurants flourished, transforming once-rural communities into bustling centers of commerce.

However, the rise of coal also brought challenges and hardships. Mining was a dangerous and demanding occupation, and accidents were frequent.

Labor unrest and strikes were not uncommon, as miners fought for better wages, working conditions, and recognition of their unions. The environmental impact of coal mining was also significant, with deforestation, water pollution, and land subsidence becoming growing concerns. Despite these challenges, the coal industry, inextricably linked to the railroads, played a pivotal role in shaping Mercer County's history and identity, leaving a lasting legacy on its economy, environment, and social fabric.